China is huge. It takes days from one city to other. Amazing place, everything is huge and beautiful. Culture difference and nature creation is also breath taking but then there is not many tourist. Population is just over the limit, history is too long to describe and it's complicated, and people are so different from town to town; small villages with no electricity, futuristic metropolis with massive buildings. There is no word to capture with miraculous country but it's China.
Yangshuo
The nightmare. It was the way to go to Yangshuo. I had no idea about the place and also I didn't know how to spell the name in Chinese. I just heard from some people in Vietnam that I should go and there is the way from Sapa where I was before and through Nanning to Yangshuo. Alright, here it was started. The bus ride from Sapa to the Vietnm border was two hours of ride. People there was nice and I was quite excited about crossing the country. Had a last Vietnamese food for lunch. I cross the border and got in to immigration. I was in a queue to through the gate. There were the people pushed me away from the queue. I'm like, that's ok if you in hurry. Then again, they just don't know how to line up. Or maybe I just didn't know the China way. I was pushed back by so many people and finally I got upset and I tried to stayed on a queue for once, there she came and pushed me harder and gave me a mid finger. I was really surprised and confused. Then I tapped her shoulder then she turned around gave me the clear sign of mid finger pointed at me. Ah... China. After that I didn't give a damn about old or woman I was just widen out my arm and care about my back stared at people behind, tried not let them take over me. Succeed but there was the troubles line up. I didn't have any Chinese cash, and don't know where to go. There is no English sign or speakers and worst is the people. No one wanted to help me at all. I mean not at all. After an hour of searching, I give up and took a mini bus; it was kind a cute like a bus with 6 passenger max with no side wall and doors run by electricity. The driver she took me to an ATM about 500m away from where I was and bus stop just around the corner. I been shocked. I asked so many people but everyone ignored me. I could have walked if anyone could tell me. For this one minute ride, the driver took 30 yuan. It's about $5 but. I had only 100yuan note from bank and she gave me the change like that. I stood in front of the bus and tried to argue but she was screaming like a bitch. Well, I always ripped off on the first day of new entry anyway. To know the how much is 1yuan worth in China, I bought a packet of cigarette; thats how I calculate the worth of money. It was 2.5 yuan. Anyway, at least she took me to a bus stop. I just said to stuff, “Nanning”. She gave me a ticket to go to Nanning. and I asked how long will it take using drawing of bus and time and watch but she couldn't understand or maybe she is not even listening to me. I worried that is it even right ticket or not. There is no English sign or anything on the ticket, and also there were so many similar name of towns around. After an hour of wait, the bus has came. It was also full and but a sleeping bus. It has three beds in side and up size about half meter in side and one and half about in length. The narrowest bus I've ever ridden on. And I had a TV within a meter in front of me. Bus was going with Chinese movie's on and went through the winding mountain; there was amazing rice field view but I was in middle so I couldn't enjoy well. Again, I was stuck in middle of all chinese for hours and hours. Stopped for toilet break for some times and the toilet... There is just a small gutter filled up with shit and there is no walls between people. But I had to go. I took a leak a guy sitting in front and facing me. It was weird experience. I quite enjoyed the Chinese movie. That was one thing I surprised. After watched 7 to 8 movies, I felt like I could understand what they were saying. Well, it ended 34 hours of bus ride in total. Then I arrived in Nanning. Ugly city. Boring. I couldn't stay there so I started to looking for a bus to go to Yangshuo. Fortunately or unfortunately, there were people who speaks English a bit. Most of the stuff told me that “yeah, yangshuo, come with me”. Then I followed couple of Chinese and almost buying the ticket. But instinctually, I asked is it right place. I wanted make sure with a map this time how far and how much. Then, they took me to a news agency and checked the map. It said Koushou or something like that. Fuck it. I had to find by myself. But thank God, I met a kind English speaking chinese woman there and she explain me that I have to go to other bus stop and showed me how to get there as well. I took a bus according to her explanation. I made it. I managed to buy the ticket to Yangshuo. But I had to wait for the bus for 8 hours in the bus stop. There was nothing around but so crowded. People hustled me and nowhere to hide out. Then I was smoking outside. There she was. A chinese woman was sitting and crying with holding a baby, and when I saw the baby I just hold my breath. I guess the baby was dead. Pale and his face was bit covered in rash. I couldn't do anything but soon some people around her noticed them and called up some security and when the security came and talked her she started to scream like a mad and cried down without vitality. They were there for about hour and polices took them away. Wonder what happened to them. Well, six hours was passed like that. Finally, I have met a foreigner a chick from France. I was just filthy but happy. We took the same bus but she was not a traveller. She works in Yangshuo as a travel agent. She explained me Yangshuo and we talked on the bus ride. I never forget the moment when we arrived in Yangshuo. It began with the beautiful mountains were light up nicely, the illumination of Chinese street and the warmth of people in that area, they were just too nice for my downer mood. She was really nice. When we arrived the town it was about 9pm and she showed me the town and her recommended hostel which is Showbitz; awesome place. Finally, I found the place to chill. It took 54hours in total. I was exhausted.
Life in showbitz
I like to call that place is my second house. They are like my family. Anyway. First night, I had to stay with a stuff, because there is no other room available. And there was a dog. I never seen the dog so shy. She was a collie dog, and when she sees people she just scared and run away like a cat. Cute and funny.
I walked around the town for the next day. It is bit touristy but a very cute small town along to a river. I booked a tour of rock climbing. It was nice. I did cycling on the other day to place called dragon bridge. It is also recommended by the French chick that I met on bus. A dollar to hire a bike for a day. I couldn't find anybody to find my company but I did it anyway. The ride was one of the best. I had a map. But I didn't follow that kind of shit. I found some local road and also lost so many times. Asked some farmers and people in a village. Rough road some were width 10cm about in between rice fields. The astonishing mountain view around, exotic old village with massive water buffalos and kind people then the dragon bridge. I didn't know that I could jump off (9m high) from the bridge to the river at that time so I missed it but I did this cycling with some friend later again and of course that time I jumped like some kids.
HongKong
HK is a huge city with high technology and a part very important history of China in such a small area. I don't call there “China” personally but technically it is a part of China with different situations. Economics and politics are completely different. Need a visa to cross HK and China as well. There are many skinny but high buildings. The trams are also skinny and has two floors. The safe standards are overrated and public consciousness are different from any other south east Asia. Clean and organized street, accurate and precise public service then fixed and exceeded prices for everything. Yep, it was a proper city.
I went to HongKong just to meet my love of my life. She was traveling through China for a month and she was in HK. I caught up her during the day time and also went out to drink. She was beautiful. She had to go back to AU next day so I couldn't hang out with her no more. Well. I can't expect anything more anyway. It was one of the happiest but sad moment of my journey.
Next day,I met one of my friend who studied in Sydney together. Sarah is a HongKong-nese girl and she took me to Stanley beach. It was quite nice place to hang out and enjoy the sunset. Next day, she showed me history museum of HK. The history of the HK amazed me a lot. Opium war, Japanese occupation days and returning to be part of China. Then I went to see a movie with my roomy that night and saw “Inception”. Awesome film.
Yangshuo 2
I went back to Yangshuo. All the stuff welcomed me nicely. There weren't any rooms available but they let me sleep on a couch on the first night. I didn't do anything that week but just chilled out. I guess I was bit tired and bored about keep on moving. I was watching movies, walking around the town, playing a guitar at roof top and sometimes next at the river. My friends and I had quite routined life like drinking at roof top playing a pool game and later hanging out at the Monkey Jane. Then I have met a Polish girl, she was in the group and drinking on the street. I joined, got drunk, went back to hostel, got out to near the river with her. We were flirting in the river and suddenly she felt pain. We got out the river and she must have stepped on some glasses or something her feet was bleeding like a hell. She was drunk and said thats ok~ I was drunk and said thats fucked. I brought her back in to the hostel and did bit of care but the cut was massive. But we went back to the river hanged out around till the light got bright enough to shows us whats going on there clear. Anyway, and we saw the sunrise together. On the way back, we were just surprised that how much she bleed on the street. Again, I had to learn how scary thing is to get drunk. Then I had to go to Guilin to extend my Chinese visa.
Guilin
Guilin is couple of hours away from Yangshuo. As soon as I arrived, I did visa extend. It took me 8days so I went back to Yangshuo in between. It was a big city. There are some site scene but they were like Yangshuo but its more touristy. Bigger temples, river and market.
I had some roomy then we went out to drink together with them for the night. Went to a bar, played some drinking game and we bought a bottle of Chinese whisky. Then, we took a cab to go back our hostel. We were quite drunk and we opened the bottle in the cab. Then my memory had swiped away. I woke up about 4 in the morning, sitting on the top of our bunk bed and I felt pain in my eyes. So I went down and tried to take off my contact lenses. But they were already off. I was rubbing my naked eyes for a while till I notice. Ow, that was pain. Next day, two of my roomy, Charlotte; they have same name, from Belgian they woke me up. And told me that we are going to the rice terrace tour. I didn't remember but apparently we booked it together. Also they told me that I was trying to hook up with them last night. I found it was quite funny but of course they were very beautiful girls. Glad that they didn't take it too serious as well but fun conversation. Anyway, we went up to the mountain village together. We took a van till the mountain and we had a nice hiking till the top. Awesome view. We chilled out at the top for hour, just to feel the breathe and rest.
We had some drink at our guest house that night and we have met more people. Pat from German, he got a guitar and we played some tune and we talked about our disgusting past; like puke stories and we say “when I was drunk” kinds of talk. That night was fun conversation night. Charlottes went up the China and Pat and I headed to Yangshuo.
Yangshuo 3
The first day, we went to mad cave and hot spring cave. I have met a Japanese guy, two Dutch men and one Greman girl. We cycled all the way to the Dragon bridge together. Took us about couple hours to get there but this time, we jumped from the bridge. The hight was just 9m but it doesn't look like that from the top and it's fuckin scary. Fabian the Dutch man, he was holding his water proved camera as a video camera in the water and shooting our jump. Even Manabu, he took almost four minutes to jump off, we were yelling in Japanese and Dutch words. That was a funny footage. We cycled back middle of the rice field and between the mountains, headed to mad cave. Then we saw the Moon hill from a distance. That hill with a big hole, it's hard to describe. Then we found the bus stop to go to the mud cave. To go inside the cave, we had to take a boat. The cave is low from the water that we had to bend down and the breathe from the inside was just chilled. 5 minutes later we had to walk from there to the mad pool; beautiful lime stones were all around. It was quite cold when we get to the mad pool, but when we started to mudding each other we become like kids. One amazing phenomenon was the floating in the mad water. When I sit or lay down in the water, my body was floated unnaturally, like in the feather except I was feeling the cold and slimy mud. It was hard to swim because of buoyancy. It was freaking cold after we took shower. So we headed to hot spring, they were in the same cave. About five minutes walk in the cave, we saw the fog and steam coming out of the top. They were not like a Japanese hot spring; small and not that hot, but comfortable and cozy also it was in the cave so was exotic. Then we headed back to the town. When we having dinner together, an English chick in the crowd recognized me and joined them for a little chat. And I saw a pair of climbing shoes along them. Then I asked are you a climber? I have met rock climbers in the restaurant. Awesome encounter, I asked them about climbing in Yangshuo. As most of the climbers, they are also awesome people. I asked for joining them. And we planned to meet up next morning for climbing. Thats the beginning of my climbing carrier in Yangahuo. It was such a short meeting for beginning of amazing days with all.
Day 2
They were freaking hard core climbers compared to me. Some are working in the climbers shop in Yangshuo and bolting the new area in Yangshuo. The first day, they took me to a place where an hour of hard core bike ride away. it was a beautiful location with no name. Duncan from AU, he finished bolting last month and it was the trying. And there is the camp site they made with their project, some bungalows and some huts. It was fucking hot day with no cloud. When all of us got there, everyone was pretty much done by the sun. Most of us were just hanging out at the hut and Pat brought his guitar, played some tunes and we chilled out for a while there as well. It was nice place. I did one climb and that was it. That night we had a beach party along to the river organized by Showbitz and 6 Irish guests who stayed in Showbitz. Those bastards were young and fun. Loves the music, loves the drink. We had a DJ plays funk, hip hop and drum and bass, and finished with oldies. That made my night in China. Fun night.
Day three, I went to climbing with the crew to the place called “White Mountain”. One of the hardest location in Yangshuo. There is nothing less than 6B which killed me with big fail. My body was filled with shit.
Day four
I met couple of more people who interested in climbing in my guest house. We hired some shoes and harness. Then we hit the rain. We brought back the gear to the shop, and the stuff was so kind that told us to go to gym and there is bouldering. It was old but quite wide bouldering and volleyball court. I did bouldering for hours and got pains in muscle. We borrowed a rubber ball from some people around and played volleyball.
Day five
I had to go back to Guilin and pick up my passport. I didn't stay there that time. When I went back I saw the ads of climbing festival in two days. Free transport, free food, free accommodation and free alcohol, no way, this can not be happening. Its in China, it will be fraud again. But I was signed in when I suspected.
Day six
I went to swimming at the river. And practiced guitar at the roof top. Said good bye to those Irish. Prepared for the festival thing, got myself a pair of climbing shoes which cost me 500yuan.
Lou Chang the climbing festival
Day one
About 30 people from foreigners in Yangshuo and 20 Chinese rock climbers gathered up for this events in the morning. There comes the actual free transport; big bus and clean. It was about 6 hours of ride, and they bought us some beer on the way. Oh, nice treat I thought. When we got to the town, it was a quite big city and our hotel “the hotel” was wow. It was a proper hotel with card key, big shower room, internet in the room (of course facebook is not available though), and huge room with king size bed. I have never stayed that kind of hotel in my life. Wow, is it all for free?? I wonder. Then we had to gather up for lunch. We all got excited about our room, none of us couldn't expected that. Then the lunch. Wooooooowow. The chinese traditional meal but not on the street. The table was big Chinese round table and the food; roosted pork, steamed chicken, rice balls and stir fried veges and blah blah blah. I never ever able to afford that kind of meal by myself. None of us could hide their surprises. Of course the alcohol was free. Then we had to move our place for the ceremony. Ceremony?? There was a pick up bus, give us a lift for 5 minutes and we arrived in the square. I heard more than 5000 people but there were humongous of people were waiting for something. It was for us. We had reserved seats and massive stage with monstrous screen. Then, it says welcome to Lou Chang rock climbing festival. Most of the people were holding their cameras and flashing, hundreds of hundreds cameras were taking photo of us. Thats also my first time me being taken photos like a celeb. Again, wow. We all just laughing and wondering. It turned out that the city has no name in tourist history so the government has put up billions of yuan into commercialize that city for all tourist. Yes, it is an ugly town but the nature around was great. The moonhill, mountains, river and the villages, they are absolutely greater than Yangshuo. I like Yangshuo more than Luo Cheng because of the backpacking atmosphere though. So they made that events. The welcoming events was three hours about with all kind of performance; I have to admit that some of the modern art was brilliant but mostly were boring traditional sing and dance. Liana and Jen got selected to go up to the stage and did bit of dance. It was quite a joke. And then the dinner, I had to stop praise about them because, during this tour, the food was brilliant.
Day two
The 1000 march. That's what we called, at least I do but when we got out after the wonderful break fast. We had mini bus waiting escorted by police to go to a “planting”. Apparently we have to do some planting for foreigners relationships. We got voucher which describe our minutes by minutes schedules. It introduced me as a professional rock climber. Made me laugh. When we get off the bus, we had to walk about 10min till the hill. There they were. Thousands of students from 7 to 17; I guess, lined up at the side of the road we had to walk. I wonder how many hours they had to wait for us there in the sunny hot day just to let us though. Again, they just take photo of us, then I did a hundreds of high five. That was quite fun. Then, when we get to the plantation hill. It was actually done but we all had to do just one shovel of soil on to the tree in front of the press. Yep, there are also hundreds of camera mans and TV cameras. So we just pretend digging the soil and took some photos and I put my name for the tree. He he he. That was tough job. Then we did marching around the lake. The lake was disgusting. The most polluted water I ever seen. Green like a mold, sky was foggy and plants around there were dying. I wonder when my plants going to die. I expected that there must be three eyed fish in the lake but I saw a plantation that I never seen which has spikes out of leaves and weird flower. I met the tallest man in the world (2m72cm, he was the guest for this event as well) and took photo together. He was huge. One girl from our group Wain from AU, she was claimed that she hit her face on to his butt when she was walking near him even though she was not that short. After the march, we headed to a site spot, I forgot the name but there is a massive kind of moon hill but on the river. We just took a bamboo boat and went through under. And saw another moon hill where will be the climbing for next day. We had lunch outside by a river. There were another ceremony as well. Lots of people were waiting for us and lot of camera men taking photos of us and people with traditional clothe singing for us while we having the lunch. We had some beers and went down to swim at the river after. We went to museum of Chinese traditions, and of course the press was following around. We got used to be in front of the massive camera lenses by the time. We gather up in Duncan's room at the night and drunk. He got scolded by the government that we should be stick to the schedule that we were not supposed to swim after the lunch and not to go out at the night. The governors were worried that we might be kidnaped.
Day three
Finally, we got chance to do some climbing. But there were only two route and one chances each. At the moon hill, 38m about, top rope but the grade was 8 fucking B. Both I climbed about 5m and stuck for ages in one place and fell like shit. Liana is the one of the best female climber I ever met. She completed one of the route. And Gary from state, he did the best out of all foreigners. There were some accident like big chunk of rock fallen from the top and so on but the event was finished nicely. We had couple of drinks at my room and another has passed.
Day four
It was the competition, there were second round of the moon hill challenge for the selected climbers. Some were selected for the final and some including me were cheering them from the distance. The lunch time, I was surprised that the power of the old Chinese women. They brought us lunch with bamboo backpack. There is about half hours of slope hiking till the hill. They came with our lunch. About ten women, they got food for hundreds. I don't think I can do that. At the night, we had bordering competition as well. Ed, Andrew,Dag and Duncan were setting up the bordering. We were at the back preparing the comp. Duncan was doing host and keep on talking and drinking that was fun. We cheered up each other but the route was just too hard. Everyone did well. There were three route to try and I was just stuck in the first rock for all of them. Shit... Liana took most of the award and Gary took I guess. Then Mitch and surprisingly I won something as well. First I thought it was sort of miss because I couldn't do anything then I thought it was the booby prize. Funny thing is I won the beauty contest. Then I won 500 yuan for that which same cost that I used for my shoes. I was quite happy that I made it to be in this freaking event. That night was mess. We just kept on drinking. At my room, some were doing pillow fight and we got some chinese wine shots. Andrew was giving me the painful massage. I don't remember how but in the end there were three girls giving me massage. Turned me on so much. One of the girl was telling me that she lost her room key into the toilet. I was in the heaven for a while then the morning came. Whats happened? I don't know... Apparently nothing happened. Well, I'm bit shocked but it was a fun night.
Day five
Everyone was hang over. I heard that one of us shit in the hotel room by mistake. He couldn't make it from his bed to toilet, so did it on the floor and now is covered in the package of instant noodle. We were just abused the great Chinese welcome and returned it to shit. I felt bad but funny. The bus ride was horrible. We went back to Yanghuo and separated into own plases.
Yangshuo 4
Next couple of weeks, I was quite into the rock climbing. Everyday, I was looking for opportunities. Find some partners, discuss about where to go. Hire the gear and bike. Lost on the way, climbing as much as I could. Drinking at the showbitz roof top at the night. Mostly I was hanging out with Irena from Spain met in the festival, Karel from Belgian and Mitch from State also festival, Frank and Gabi from German they joined and Juri also German caught up later. Awesome people to climb with. They taught me leading and support me well. And some times, we some travelers joined together. These days were pure fun time of my life.
Day 1
Just being hang over. Watched some movies
Day 2
Climbing. Egg hill. My first leading experience.
Great wall, it was hard to find the way. We could see it in front of us but lost in the rice field for hours. We stayed out too late as well. It was getting dark and Karel was still leading one of the route during the sunset. He struggling finding bolts but he couldn't see them well, but we couldn't stop. Because we had to clean the quick draw hanging on the wall. By the time he got them all, it was totally dark and the way back was like a cliff with no safe. Besides, we were carrying the gears like ropes and quickdraw. We couldn't count them but everyone was waiting for us. On the road there is no light we either have any lights. Gabi had one light but that is it. The street was full of cars but the light was just too bright and made us blind. But we made back with no accident.
Day 3
Climbing. Space buttress
Day 4
Climbing. Space buttress
Day 5
Climbing. Twin gate.
I have met a lovely Dutch girl and did climbing together. When we were drinking at the roof top at the night, something must have happen. Two of us were kissing in the bar suddenly and has disappeared into the dark river.
Day 6
Chilling, I was hang over and filled with dazed happiness. Practiced guitar for a while and watched some movie.
Day 7
My friend Noortje from Holland she fixed my loosen dread hair. And we watched movies together.
Day 8
Climbing Low mountain
Prob, it is my favorite place. Nice chilling place, with caves from war. I like to do climbing camp in there. But I couldn't organize that...
Day 9
Climbing Baby frog
Day 10
It was the chinese long holiday for four days. Because of that big number of Chinese tourist flooded into Yangshuo for holiday. And the price of the guest house has jumped up more than three times. I asked Duncan to stay at his flat and he let me stay there for the holiday.
Day 11
I went to gym myself and did bordering and practice juggling. Duncan is a good juggler he taught me some skills.
Day 12
Climbing Space buttress
Day 13
Climbing Egg hill
I did some leading for 6a and top rope 6c. I was quite happy at last.
Day 14
Finally I went to moon hill of Yangshuo. First I was alone, but on the way, I met my friends and we climbed up the top of the hill together. That place was awesome. Just standing in the middle of the mountains. Beautiful breathe and significant view, I possessed both of them there. I said good bye and thanks to all those people who hang out with and took care of me in Yangshuo. And I left to HK for flight to Philippine.
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